How much space do chickens really need and how to get vitamin eggs

Understanding what makes this poultry happy will allow you to decide on the size of the chicken coop and make it comfortable, because happy chickens will always thank the owner with valuable eggs with a high content of vitamin D.

People breed chickens in all countries of the world, in different climatic conditions, with different breeds and methods of keeping. However, there is a general rule: the more closely the chickens are “packed” in a confined space, the more problems with the behavior of poultry, the higher the risk of disease and “egg failure”.

Behavioral problems due to overcrowding can range from fighting and bullying the weak to pecking and cannibalism. For hard work, consider cleaning. The smaller the chicken coop, the more often you will have to clean it of litter.

The important thing here is how much space is available for the physical activity of birds: whether it be a place in a chicken coop or in a walking yard.

If the only purpose of the coop is to provide a safe place for the chickens to sleep, and you are willing to get up every morning to graze the chicken, you can make the coop smaller. But when chickens spend time mostly indoors, the calculations are different - about 30 sq cm per HEAD with a margin. Why is that.

Let's assume that each chicken occupies 30 sq. cm of the area. If you have two hens, which you allocate 90 sq cm, the birds together occupy 60 sq cm and there is still 30 square centimeters free for movement. Therefore, already for the four chickens that you place with a margin, the free internal space increases to 60 sq cm, and so on. As you can see, extra centimeters really matter, especially for a herd of different ages or mixed breeds, as well as in the presence of a rooster.

There is room in the larger free area for the correct placement of feeders and drinkers relative to perches so that the litter does not fall into the feed and water when the hens settle down for the night. Also, while hens don't need much space directly to roost, they should be able to fly down in the morning without bumping into feeders, drinkers, nest boxes, or walls.

Under the perch, it is worth reinforcing a litter board, which will help optimize cleaning. The width of the board should correspond to the length of the body of the bird, so that the droppings hit exactly the target, no matter how the chicken turns. On the sides of the board, it does not hurt to nail low sides - you get a gutter for filling with fresh sawdust mixed with diatomaceous earth. This simple trick will keep you hygienic and save you a lot of cleaning work. Sanitary shavings are replaced every two to three weeks. In the case of a simple board, the droppings will have to be scraped off with a knife, and the board will be treated regularly with disinfectants.

chicken run

The presence of walking greatly facilitates the life of the owner of chickens. Even a modest paddock of 3x3 square meters is better than nothing. Try laying out a few boards on the ground to get an idea of ​​how big (or small) your run area is and adjust accordingly based on the number of animals. Through a strong and thick wire for a fence, pass a few bright red ribbons fluttering in the wind. Scarlet flags are not liked by many predatory animals.

The pen should be attached to the main roosting area of ​​the chickens and have a small door on the side of the coop that will allow the birds to come and go during the day. They will need access to an enclosed area to lay their eggs, or shelter from the cold and rain. It's a good idea to strategically divide the paddock into lighted and shady areas. If the issue is solved with a shadow simply due to the visor, then space should be opened for sunny chicken baths, possibly by cutting down hanging tree branches. For chickens, and even adult chickens, sunbathing is essential for HEALTH.

Although chickens are more tolerant of heat than cold, and therefore, ideally, the chicken coop itself is installed in the shade under trees, be sure to provide access to the sun's rays in the pen - chickens are not penguins or vampires. Vitamin D is an important factor in egg production and well-being!

Vitamin D deficiency in the diet of chickens for more than three weeks can cause rickets, brittle bones, fractures or joint problems, leading to the death of the bird.

Without sunlight (or vitamin D supplements), laying hens will stop laying eggs. Optimal egg production requires at least 16 hours of light per day. In addition, ultraviolet rays are the best way to kill most bacteria and pathogens.

Did you know that chickens, like many birds, have a gland at the base of their tail that secretes a special oil that the bird applies to its feathers during preening. This oil produces vitamin D when exposed to sunlight. Vitamin D is then absorbed into the body through the skin.

However, chickens also absorb vitamin D through their eyes, according to scientists. Unlike humans, who see only the red and blue-green color spectrum, birds see a wider range of colors, including ultraviolet rays, which supply them with a valuable vitamin directly.

Vitamin D is, of course, added to chicken feeds. It is also naturally present in eggs, red MEAT, fish such as salmon, mackerel, sardines and herring, and fish oils. Mushrooms contain this vitamin, but there are no plants containing vitamin D.

Obviously, eggs from chickens on the run will contain more vitamin D than eggs laid by hens that never go outside.

Depending on age, chickens require between 3,000 and 5,000 IU/kg of vitamin D daily. This can be easily achieved by allowing the animals to spend a couple of hours outdoors each day.